January 03, 2016

Meet Me in Penang

Friends from Indonesia and I decided to meet half way this first week of the new year: I came down from Bangkok Thailand and the Kwieciens flew up from Jakarta Indonesia and we met at a resort in Penang Malaysia. I've been to Borneo (island portion of Malaysia) but have never been to mainland Malaysia. Penang is considered mainland even though, technically, it is a small island off the west coast with a number of smaller islands that surround it. When looking on a map, you'll find Penang is not far from the capital city of Kuala Lumpur.




We were able to take advantage of a bus tour around the island that allowed opportunity to hop on and hop off wherever we felt like spending time. I have come to learn this is often the best way to become familiar with an area, like Penang. It not only allows passengers the chance to see a detailed look at what they find interesting but also gives an overview of the entire region when driving around.









And in this light, what I noticed most about the north end of the island is the diversity between the older rural communities in districts such as Little India and historic Georgetown, in contrast to the incredibly clean and modern parts of the city like Batu Ferringhi and coastal regions in Tanjung Tokong. In many ways Penang reminded me of Hong Kong -- especially the meandering roads through the hills, the densely populated skyscrapers along the water's edge and beautiful tree-lined boulevards.








January 02, 2016

Historic Kuala Lumpur

Before heading back to Bangkok, I decided to spend a few days in Kuala Lumpur, or KL as the locals call it. The capital city is not to be confused with the city of Kota Kinabalu or KK on the Borneo side (eastern island) of Malaysia. The view of the city from my hotel room sure gave me a feel for the city as it stands today.

Since my time was limited in the city, I visited what fascinates me most about any area: its history and architecture. Hence, I took a taxi to what is called Merdeka Square; the Malay word merdeka means freedom. This is the area of the city where KL got its beginning at the converging of two rivers (the Gombak and Klang Rivers), where many a Sunday afternoon picnic took place over the centuries and where the Malayians celebrated independence on August 31 1957.




The KL City Gallery was a good starting point where tour guides offered a good overview of KL, including past, present and future. The Gallery itself occupies the former Government Printing Office and Memorial Library back in 1898.



Located beside the Gallery is the Museum of Music where once stood the Chartered Bank in 1919. This is a good example of Moghul architecture confirming the influence of Medieval India in the area.

I had a chance to observe the 100 year old Victorian Fountain at the center of Merdeka Square. This fountain features some Art Nouveau tilework, was brought in from England and assembled once it got to the city of KL.

The Malaysian flag waving at the top of the 100 meter flagpole is clearly visible in Merdeka Square and is one of the tallest in the world. The flag of independence was hoisted for the first time in 1957 and has flown ever since.


Some of the more-obvious buildings that show British historic roots in KL include the tutor-style bar that originated in 1884 and continues to admit men only, and the Cathedral of St Mary built in 1894. St Mary’s is the first brick church in the Federated Malay States and is also one of the oldest Anglican churches in the region.

Two of my favorite buildings in the district include the National Textile Museum built in 1905 distinguishable by its alternating red brick and white plaster bands. The onion-shaped domes are a give-away that some of its design features come from Indian Moghul architecture.



The Sultan Abdul Samad Building is an enormous complex that occupies one side of Merdeka Square. This building has had many uses since 1897, including the High Court and Supreme Court in the later 20th century. It is now occupied by the Ministry of Information, Communications and Culture. Visitors can't miss the 41 meter clock tower, arched colonnades and copper domes.





I was quick to find the historic district an interesting mix of British and Indian architecture. The fact that the British controlled certain Malaysian states during the 18th and 19th centuries and the mix of Indian, Chinese and European population explains the diversity of influence. It is no surprise to see the Victorian Fountain and this Masjid Jamek Mosque built in 1909 from the same vantage point. The contrast is even more 'stark' when these historic buildings are set against the current day skyscrapers.