The East Indies

History attests to the amount of European influence in Southeast Asia, also known as the age of colonialism, beginning in the early 1500s. The Europeans at the time, referred to this territory as the East Indies and its inhabitants simply as natives. Countries such as Portugal, Spain, the Netherlands, Britain and France made every effort to find new trade routes to China and saw the southeast as their ticket. Included is a map and propaganda from the early days of trading, some hundreds of years ago.

While the Portuguese were often the first to colonize, they were gradually eclipsed by other European nations as they duked-it-out to gain new markets in distant lands. I have witnessed European influence in most southeastern countries, such as Dutch influence when visiting Indonesia (view this post), the Spanish in the Philippines and Taiwan, British influence in Malaysia (view this post), Singapore and Burma (which remains at the heart of current day issues in that country), along with the French rule in areas of Vietnam (view this post), Cambodia and now Laos.

As for Thailand, visitors can detect indications of European influence like the Dutch East India Co warehouses along the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, a trading route, but these indications are far and few between. It is important to note that "Thailand survived as the only Southeast Asian state to avoid European colonial rule because the French and the British decided it would be a neutral territory to avoid conflicts between their colonies." The Dutch storehouses in Bangkok are now part of a shopping complex accessible to residents and visitors by river taxi (view this post).

Between the years of 1870s and World War I, the Japanese, Germans, Russians and Americans also gained influence as new imperial powers in the region. The age of colonialism, however, gradually died during the period of the World Wars because the imperialist powers could not fight the wars and maintain direct rule in Asia at the same time. Colonialism formally ended with the independence of the Portuguese Empire's last colony of East Timor in the year 2002.

Remembering Laos

Ever since I moved to Thailand, I wanted to visit the country of our land-locked neighbor to the north. Personally, I think it's important to not only know about one's country of residence but its neighbors. I finally had the chance to visit Laos during our school's fall break.

I had no idea how much French influence still remains in current-day Vientiane, the captial of Laos. The city eventually fell under French rule in 1893 after a bloody history, particularly between southeastern countries of Burma and Siam (Thailand). In fact, the current spelling of the city name Vientiane was mandated by the French because they had a difficult time pronouncing the hard 'ch' sound in the Lao version of the city name Viang chan.

The French invested a lot of time and money to rebuild the city and repair the temples, and consequently left many colonial buildings behind after their rule ended in 1953. This building is the Presidential Palace that overlooks the Mekong River.

French influence in the region is evident when visiting sites such as the Pataxai War Monument, dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France. Pataxai means "Gate of Triumph" and is also known as the Arc de Triomphe of Vientiane because it resembles the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, a monument to those who fought for France in the French Revolution and Napoleonic wars. Vientiane's monument is located at the end of the Lang Xang parkway in the heart of Vientiane.

Even though it resembles the Arc de Triomphe, it is very much Laotian in design, decorated with mythological creatures on its towers and having gates facing in each direction with accompanying reflection pond.

At the other end of the city behind this vendor's cart of baskets is a statue of the Lao Kingdom's last monarch, the King Anouvong statue. This king is credited for influencing the Thai king Rama III not to amalgamate Laotian territory with its own, even though Anouvong technically lost the war to Thailand in the early 1800s. I guess history has a way of 'going easy' on predecessors for the sake of national pride!

Visitors will find that most statues in Asia, whether religious in nature or of honorary figures, provide a place for people to pray in front. This is to allow the visitor opportunity to invoke the spirit of the one before them and is based on the belief that the dead have a continued existence that may influence the fortune of the living. In reality, this is not much different than the Catholic practice of calling on the saints to intercede with God, which evangelical Christians refute as misguided knowing we have direct access to God through prayer!

Whether remembering the influence of the French or digging deeper to its autonomous roots, Vientiane has some beautiful reminders of its country's heritage.

Laos, Very Familiar

Since Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos are in the same geographic region, with the Mekong River running through and bordering each, these countries inevitably share a similar heritage, language, religion and customs. Add to this the fact they were all governed by the French in the past few centuries and all experienced the travesties of the Vietnam War in the late 20th century. I am therefore not surprised that I found Laos 'very familiar'.

My experience in Laos was not all-that different from my visits to Vietnam and Cambodia or even living in Thailand. This was especially true when traversing the streets, markets and temples. Vendors along the streets and at the markets sell similar goods and the crowds flow through in similar forms of transportation.

I could easily find Som Tum (Papaya Salad), Moo Ping (Grilled Pork on skewers) and sticky rice that are all favorites from back home.

There were some differences at the vendor stalls, however, that no doubt reflected local taste. For instance, this is the first time I saw anyone skewer a bunch of shelled eggs and grill them over a BBQ. I have since learned these are not just ordinary eggs but the insides have been drained, mixed with spices and put back in the shell via a tiny hole to then cook over coals. Apparently they are very good once cooked and peeled. I wouldn't know because I couldn't get past the part where someone blows the inside of the egg out of the shell before funneling it back in =)

My visit to the Lao temple Pha That Luang reminded me of the many temples I've visited in this part of the world. At the same time, the architecture of this stupa is a bit different since it includes many references to Lao culture and has become a symbol of Lao nationalism, such as on its currency. The original structure was built in the 3rd century and has undergone many renovations since. Of course over the centuries this temple area has been the object of much looting during foreign invasions, no doubt attracting the attention of invaders with a gold-leaf covered exterior along with equally-ornate temples that surround it.

My visit to Laos was a good reminder that this country suffered through the Vietnam War since war operations easily crossed international borders. While I knew that Laos was involved in the war, I hadn't stopped to think that it also experienced the same political outcome as its neighboring countries. Not only did North Vietnam conquer South Vietnam in April 1975 but the communist were also victorious in Cambodia when the Khmer Rouge captured Phnom Penh on April 17th, as were the Pathet Lao successful in capturing Vientiane on December 2nd. Like Saigon, US civilian and military personnel were evacuated from Phnom Penh and the US diplomatic presence in Vientiane was downgraded and the number of US personnel was reduced.

I was reminded of the communist presence in Vientiane as I saw Soviet flags waving alongside the Laos flag. There were other reminders as well, such as the name of a restaurant called the Sputnik Burger.

Many who have traveled to Laos told me this country is like a blast from the past! Living in Vientiane is like living in the 1950s, except for the occasional ATM and air conditioned restaurant. There were definite signs of this especially when enjoying the 50s music in restaurants with songs like Twelve O'Clock Rock, My Girl, Love Potion Number 9, and songs by the Beatles. The thing is: these places weren't trying to imitate the 50s like diners back home... this was their regular fare!

My tuk-tuk driver told me that I just missed Vientiane hosting boat races down the Mekong; unfortunately I visited Laos a week too early. I was, however, around to witness the partying that went on as the event approached, including the (I counted) 10 songthaews carrying orange-cloaked monks headed to the celebrations. Good times had by all!