June 16, 2015

Dublin City Highlights

One advantage of living halfway around the world in Bangkok Thailand from my home town in Canada is that I can choose different routes when I travel annually for my summer break. In reality, it's pretty much the same long journey regardless if I cross the Pacific or Atlantic oceans with flight stopovers in countries along the way.

Since I've flown the Pacific route these last 8 years, I figured it's time to change direction and take advantage of extended stopovers in Europe. And to this end, this year I decided to spend a week in Ireland to experience it firsthand. The decision to go to Dublin, in particular, was made easy when I learned that a few of my friends would be there from both Canada and Thailand. Interesting how the location and timing (second week in June) worked out for everyone!

Dublin is a great 'walking town' in that many of the highlights are centrally located and visitors can easily walk between destinations. For instance, my friends and I often met at Trinity College (est 1592) and made our way through Dublin from there. This was only a 10 minute jaunt when walking through Saint Stephen's Green (est 1880), a beautiful 22 acre Victorian park located across the street from my hotel.

Residences at Trinity College

Dining Hall

Chapel off Trinity's Parliament Square

Students at Trinity College in the 1800s (I didn't take this picture =)

The Book of Kells has been in the possession of Trinity College since 1661. Visitors can read how monks at the Abbey of Kells (circa 800 AD) transcribed four New Testament gospels that depict extraordinary calligraphy, illustrations, use of color and Christian symbolism. Personally, I found my visit a revering experience as I viewed this book created some 1200 years ago that contains the same gospel message anyone can read today! While photos are not allowed in the exhibit, I found this image of a page from the Gospel of John on the Internet:


In a similar vein, the Chester Beatty Library hosts an incredible collection of eastern and western religious writings along with other artistic works from the 3rd century BC to the 20th century AD.

I was once again moved when witnessing centuries-old excerpts of the Bible -- in one case, the earliest known copy recorded on 2nd century papyrus! Amazing that I can find these same words on the digital version of my iPod Bible app in my pocket! What an incredible reminder of how special these words have been and what kind of care was taken with Scripture over the centuries. I believe the same reverence should be attributed to God's Holy message today even though it is easily accessible to us in so many formats.


A visit to Dublin would not be complete without a visit to Dublin Castle and a nearby passageway called Murder Lane or 40 Steps. This passageway connected the interior of Medieval area of Dublin with a rough area of the city known as Hell -- a denizen of whorehouses and drug dens. Not exactly the most flattering part of town but complete with a LOT of stories.


The castle itself was used by Vikings as a military and trading center of slaves and silver, then used by the Normans during their conquest of the country and the British during their rule of Ireland for over 700 years. The prominent tower functioned as a high security prison and held native Irish hostages and priests in Tudor times.





Dublin highlights did not only consist of museums and castles, for we also enjoyed eating at the oldest pub in the city, the Brazen Head established in 1198. Hard to imagine this was a gathering place during the Norman invasion of Ireland and subsequent 800+ years of Irish history. Not only was the architecture a treat for the eye but the food certainly satisfied the palate and the Irish music the ear.




A weekend football (soccer) match between Scotland and Ireland sure brought out the fans, including those from Scotland who were well-adorned with kilts and Scottish chants.


It was wonderful to relax in St Patrick's Cathedral Park and take in the architecture of the national cathedral at the same time. This cathedral was founded in 1191 (at the same time as Brazen Head) and is the largest church in Ireland. Jonathan Swift is perhaps the most famous dean of the cathedral for his works including Gulliver's Travels and other prose.




Alison, Brian and I decided to head to the Natural History Museum one afternoon and I'm sure glad we did, for I found it one of the best national museums around.




Not only did I take an interest in the specimens of animals from around the world but the early 20th century Victorian architecture that housed them!








An added bonus was experiencing the 2015 Bloomsday Festival that just happened to be in full swing when we were in town. This annual festival commemorates one of Dublin's authors James Joyce and his book Ulysses which takes place in Dublin. Festival celebrations include dressing up like the book’s characters in period costume, tours, readings, performances and street parties. I must admit it was a great way to envision what this city must have looked like on June 16, 1904.



June 15, 2015

Political and Religious Climate Change

I wasn't in Ireland long before starting to learn its history. I think the taxi driver who was driving me from the airport to my hotel was the first to instruct me =) From then, various tour guides and further research provided greater detail on exactly who had a part to play in the history of Ireland and the typical religious fallout that resulted.

I like to know the overall history of an area so I can place individual events and detailed information as I later come across them. Through research, I realized just how much the religious climate of Ireland changed depending on who governed the island at the time. If you're like me then you may appreciate this incredibly brief overview of Ireland's political and religious history I put together for the sake of context.

1. The Neolithic period occurred around 3500 BC and is evident today in the Boyne Valley. Our trip to Newgrange is an example of life during this period where we could view a series of chamber tombs, standing stones and enclosures. Archeologists then categorize the Bronze and Iron Ages that take us into the 1st century. This is the period of time when art, language and culture began to take hold.

2. Christianization of Gaelic Ireland began in the 5th century when St Patrick who, according to tradition, arrived in 432 AD and worked to convert the Irish to Christianity and introduce academics via monasteries. This was known as the Golden Age with the foundation of monastic schools. The Book of Kells is one example of Latin learning during this period and visitors today are able to see the actual books transcribed by the monks in the 9th century.


For the record, St Patrick is traditionally credited with preserving and codifying Irish laws and changing only those that conflicted with Christian practices. He is credited with introducing the Roman alphabet, which enabled Irish monks to preserve parts of the extensive oral literature. The historicity of these claims, however, remains the subject of debate and there is no direct evidence linking Patrick with any of these accomplishments. The myth of Patrick, as scholars refer to it, was developed in the centuries after his death.

3. The first recorded Viking raid in Irish history occurred in 795 AD when Vikings, possibly from the fjords of Norway, looted various islands and coastal areas of Ireland. Early Viking raids were small in scale but grew in intensity and interrupted the Golden Age of Christian Irish culture when they plundered monasteries and towns throughout Ireland. These invasions led Ireland into a period of secularization, both within the church and politics.

4. Norman invasions and resultant Christian influence took place in the 12th century. The Normans descended from Viking conquerors and were a people who gave their name to Normandy, a region in northern France. They played a major political, military, and cultural role throughout medieval Europe and even in northern parts of the Middle East. Normans were famed for their martial spirit and eventually for their Christian piety and religious orthodoxy.

The Normans had a profound effect on Irish culture and history after their invasion at Bannow Bay (along the coast halfway between Dublin and Cork) in 1169. Initially the Normans maintained a distinct culture and ethnicity. Yet, with time, they incorporated Irish culture to the point that it has been said that they became "more Irish than the Irish themselves." The Normans settled mostly in an area in the east of Ireland and established many castles and settlements, including Dublin Castle. As is recorded in a review on the Internet, both cultures intermixed, borrowing from each other's language, culture and outlook.

5. Numerous Irish kings tried their best to keep Ireland out of the hands of their invaders. On charges of abducting the wife of another king, one of these kings (King Leinster) was dispossessed in the 12th century and solicited help from King Henry II from England to get him reinstated. Instead of helping the ousted king, the English with their military superiority conquered the Irish kingdoms and established themselves (such as building their own castles), thus initiating over 700 years of British rule in Ireland. Government powers resided in these courtyard buildings near Dublin Castle over the centuries (tower that held prisoners pictured below).


6. British invasion was supported by the pope in Rome who wanted to influence the direction of the "barbaric church" in Ireland. At that time the church did not conform to Latin standards or pay tax to Rome. Rome's influence, however, was defeated centuries later in 1614 with the overthrow of Catholic majority due to the Reformation and influx of thousands of English and Scottish Protestants. Christ Church Cathedral is the best representation of the Catholic existence in Dublin during pre-Reformation days, founded sometime after 1028.

7. The Irish led many uprisings against the British over the past seven centuries. Examples of uprisings on Dublin soil date back to 1534 and the Irish Rebellion of 1803 where leaders tried to seize control of Dublin Castle. One of the more modern uprisings was the 1922 Irish War of Independence where the larger part of Ireland finally broke away from the United Kingdom to become the Irish Free State. As a result, the southern part of Ireland (not under British rule) has become predominantly Catholic again as shown by the 2011 census map depicting religious affiliation "other than Catholic".

Tensions continue to this day in northern Ireland where the Protestant majority want to remain part of the United Kingdom, whereas the typically Catholic National Republicans want to become part of the 'free' Republic of Ireland in the south.