It was time to learn more about the capital city of Kathmandu, with a population close to 1 million and municipal area of only 50 square kilometres (19 sq miles) -- sure makes for a densely populated city! Sushil and I drove to a downtown area then walked along a narrow street that offered plenty of cultural images of Nepoli life. Needless to say I was busy with my camera and Sushil was very patient.
Street life was fascinating enough, but when we turned a corner into
Durbar Square, I believe my words were “Whoa, this is amazing”. And it truly was amazing. I learned that
Durbar Square is an ancient part of Kathmandu hosting palaces of the then
Kathmandu Kingdom. The area itself dates back to the third century with the earliest remaining structures dating back to the middle ages.
Visitors are allowed entry into the palaces of the
Malla and
Shah kings who ruled the nation over the centuries. No doubt these palaces were 'upgraded' over the centuries with the addition of courtyards and temples, often decorated with elaborately-carved wooden windows and doors.
A cultural highlight for me occurred when Sushil showed me a small opening between buildings that led us to one of his favorite restaurants. I checked numerous times and there was no sign advertising this restaurant from the street; the locals just knew where to go!
The narrow passage could not have been more than 3 feet wide and at the end of this alley was a fire pit area where cooks prepared our meal. I am positive I was the only foreigner they had seen in this place in a long, long time.
It is here I was able to experience true Nepoli cuisine prepared using, let’s say, true Asia methods. Buffalo is the only meat offered and they are
most liberal with their use of spice. Fortunately living in Korea and Thailand for the past seven years helped me handle the spicy food. As for the meal itself, I don't think buffalo with flat rice (dried rice pounded flat) will be a combination I see anytime soon given the fact this is a local favorite.
Sushil warned me to dismiss any notion I had of the standard restaurant, for this place broke all 'western rules'. It was so laid-back that customers sat wherever they could find a surface, cooks served food by picking it up with their hands to get it on your plate, and conveniences such as napkins and ice were not even a thought... and I loved the experience!
A picture is worth a thousand words, so I'm including a 35 second video to help you get an idea of what I'm talking about. (Note: it really is as dark in there as the video shows)
