February 15, 2010

A Mountain Fortress

A short distance from my condo is a hiking trail that leads to the remains of a fortress from the Three Kingdoms Era. Historians refer to this era when the Korean peninsula and parts of Mongolia were dominated by three dynasties (57 BC to 668 AD): Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla.

I'm including a map from Wikipedia as a visual of how Korea was divided into various kingdoms 1500 years ago. My current hometown of Daejeon falls within the Baekje dynasty.

I love the fact that I have a choice of hiking trails in the nearby mountains to take in some fresh air and Korean countryside.  Having historic sites like Gyejoksanseong as a destination makes hiking all the more enjoyable.

In some parts, especially close to the fortress, the trail is challenging because it is so steep. Westerners at school often comment how trails in our part of the world tend to be longer and more gradual, using switchbacks to ease the climb. Korean trails, on the contrary, often take the climber the shortest and most direct route -- straight up! Consequently, hikers in Korea utilize ropes and walking sticks to navigate the slopes.


After the climb to the top of the mountain, visitors are able to get a great view of the city of Daejeon and area.  How great to see my neighborhood and the Expo Apartment complex from this vantage point!



The fortress wall is an incredible architectural element imposing on the landscape.  The wall and elevation obviously gave the Korean inhabitants a great defensive advantage over their adversaries.




A plaque at the site details a brief history in Korean and English:

Gyejoksanseong is Daejeon's largest mountain fortress with 1,037 meter's total length of circumference. It was built in the Three Kingdoms Era, with stones piled up along the circumference of the mountaintop. The fortress was constructed using a technique of [filling earth between outer and inner stone walls]. Gate sites have been found in south, west and north walls except the northern part which stands on a steep slope. Inside the fortress, stands the Bongsudae (a beacon site) near the south gate while a well and reservoir are located near the east gate. More than 10 historical building sites have been discovered inside the fortress including the Jangdaeji (military commander's post). Not only that, various relics such as tiles for roofing, earthenware dishes and clarion porcelains have been excavated in the neighborhood. It has been presumed to be the site of Ongsanseong (a mountain fortress) where Baekje's soldiers fought fierce battles with its enemy, Silla.

 

  

 

Having visited the fortress makes it easy to imagine people walking the same turf some 1500+ years ago while having visited historic replicas of Korean villages reveal what life must have been like for them back then.