Red October

Every once in awhile a rare opportunity comes your way and you simply have to jump on board. Well, one of these opportunities came my way in early October that allowed me to go to Yanji China with a small tour group from my school. I have been to China numerous times to the 'hot spots' such as Shanghai and Hong Kong, but this is an area of China that most people never get to see.

I had to look at a map to see exactly where this place is located. As I learned, Yanji is in the far northeastern corner of China, close to the heavily guarded Russian and North Korean borders deep in the heart of communism. I must admit I was expecting this area to be barren and unattractive -- but how wrong I was. Contrary to my expectations, this area of Asia has some incredible mountain and natural beauty.


It is recorded that the northeastern part of China was so remote that it remained almost completely undeveloped until the late 19th century when the Koreans started to migrate to this area in great numbers. No wonder Koreans make up almost half of its current population of 300,000 for the Koreans started to migrate to this area even before the Chinese! For the visitor it is easy to detect the existence of both cultures since most signs are written in both Chinese and Korean, enforced by law.

It is difficult to tell that Yanji was ever undeveloped when observing our hotel. The Grand Dynasty Daewoo Hotel was about the most opulent hotel I've stayed in my travels so far -- not only are common areas intriguing to the eye but our rooms were newly decorated and very comfortable. Entering the lobby was like taking a walk through an 18th century palace with its gilded ceilings, life-size portraits, Chinese pottery, chandeliers and ornate furniture to match. When you're expecting Motel 6, a place like this is a definite surprise! Not exactly the decor I would choose to decorate my home but it was sure nice to look at for the five days during our visit.




Most days our group traveled around northeastern China to visit sites such as Paekdu Mountain and the point where China, Russia and North Korea meet. During the days when we stayed closer to Yanji, we included a visit to Yanbian University of Science and Technology (YUST) where we met James Kim the president of the university -- the one who built and operates this Yanji university from non-government funds (except for donated land) and has somehow convinced Kim Jong Il to allow the building of a similar university in North Korea! It is nothing short of a miracle that the North Korean university is soon to open, offering science, technology and even business curriculum in the most restricted communist country in the world. For a more detailed account of James Kim and his story, go to CNN's report.


The government of China actually donated land for the development of Yanbian University in the early 1990s. When walking the grounds we were told it used to be a massive grave site that is still evident after a long rain -- most of the graves were found with remains cremated, but occasionally you can still find bones sticking out of the ground when the ground is soft. But tripping over bones does not seem to detract from the incredible surrounding views of mountains, agricultural lands and downtown Yanji.


Almost all of our meals were in the Yanji area, frequenting primarily Chinese and Korean restaurants. One highlight for me was eating at a North Korean restaurant, owned by North Koreans in Yanji on an exchange program. I didn't think there would be much difference between South Korean and North Korean cuisine but I definitely noticed... I guess this means I am growing accustomed to the tastes of South Korea! For instance, North Korean Kimchee is typically less salty and uses different spices which makes the Kimchee Bokumbap (as seen in picture) incredibly good! So much so, that I still catch myself thinking about it =)

In between day trips and meals, our group ventured onto the streets of Yanji. It was a wonderful way to observe daily life of the locals. The sights and smells were at times unbelievable, especially coming from the outdoor markets. You would think after three years of living in Asia I would be used to food exposed to the outdoor elements but it still surprises me. I couldn't help but chuckle when I saw a row of naked birds hanging at a tented stall and a man pounding dried fish with a hammer. I'm really not sure why he was pounding these poor fish but I guess it was some form of tenderizing.







Visiting Yanji in many ways strengthened my existing impressions of China. Even though this remote part of the country is far from the hustle of the major cities, there is a subtle paradox you detect here as in other parts of China. In the public eye there is evidence of increasing freedoms (such as churches, open markets, western restaurants, luxurious hotels, etc) yet an invisible hand of control over it as well.

There are definite, often unspoken, boundaries in place that you simply do not challenge. For instance, our group was able to worship in a foreigner's church service on Sunday morning but were told that no Chinese local can join us for they must go to a state-run church. I'm told there are usually enough 'visitors' in attendance to enforce such a condition. At other times I noticed guards maintaining order out in public; funny how they all seem to be camera-shy.

Perhaps the most amazing example of crowd control I witnessed was with the 60th anniversary celebrations of communism when Mao Zedong invoked communist rule in 1949. What a coincidence to be in China during these festivities on October 4th. Watching the Beijing celebrations live on TV is an experience I doubt I will forget. I literally sat in front of the tube for two hours commenting to a fellow-watcher, "I don't believe it. How much time, money and effort does it take to put on a performance like this?" Not only were the fireworks displays mesmerizing but the over 200,000 participants they orchestrated in Tiananmen Square... and I thought Christmas Sunday School productions were an undertaking =) If you haven't seen reports of this, then take a look at this link of the 60th anniversary.

An amazing country and a privileged opportunity I had to experience another part of it.

Paekdu-san

A definite highlight for everyone in our tour group was the visit to Paekdu-san (translated White-headed Mountain), approximately a four hour drive from Yanji. So many people who visited this area in the past have talked about this mountain that I really wanted to see it for myself.

Nobody mentioned to me that the trip to Paekdu-san would be an adventure in and of itself. Not only did it take three buses to get our group most of the way up the mountain but we then had an interesting jeep ride to the hill station and then hike the rest of the way to the lake. I say interesting jeep ride because the Chinese drivers took pleasure in going so fast up the switchbacks that the vehicles were skidding on dry pavement. Having driven on snow and ice, I wasn't too uneasy about it but some of the other passengers were white-knuckled by the end of the trip. Now if they hadn't installed the green guard rails last year I might have a different perspective on this =)



However long and windy the trip, it was all worth it. I must admit that last hike was a bit of a rude awakening because the temperatures were well-below freezing and the winds almost knocked you over. But what a view!








During my visit, I learned that Paekdu-san is a volcanic mountain that is the highest peak on the Korean peninsula, lies on the border of China and North Korea and harbors a large crator lake called Tianchi (or translated Heaven Lake). My sources say many Koreans talk about visiting this area before they die because the mountain is considered sacred and is the place of their ancestral origin. I retrieved the aerial image from Wikimedia Commons, a good perspective of the 4.5 kilometer (diameter) crator lake.

The mountains on the far side of the lake are in North Korea.


Actually, I'm glad it was a little cloudy that day because the mixture of sun and cloud made for some dynamic views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Seemed like every few minutes we got to see a different composition!

Toein' the Line

Remember the kids game when one would draw a line in the sand and challenge another to dare step over it? Well, my trip along the North Korean border in Tumen China felt a little like I was playing this game again. There was a part of me that wanted to take the challenge and cross into North Korea but knew the line that separates China and North Korea is no game to the guards who patrol it or the countries they represent.

The line actually exists on a bridge spanning the two countries and can be approached after giving a small donation to the Chinese border guards. The guards allow you to pass through the inspection gate and walk within inches of the border.




The Tumen River and surrounding area looks so calm and peaceful to the visitor -- even a couple river rafts docked along the shore as showpieces of tranquility. Hard to believe this narrow river dividing China and North Korea is the very place where so many have attempted to escape from North Korea. Despite it's peaceful appearance, I have no doubt there was a legion of guards incognito watching our every move. Horrific stories coming from such a beautiful place; one such story I found in the Washington Post.





Looking over the Tumen River into North Korea was both fascinating and sad at the same time. I suppose if the media didn't spend so much time educating us or if I didn't hear stories from South Koreans about friends and relatives in the north, I would not be so fascinated that I was at this highly-guarded border or sad when thinking of the residents experiencing difficulties on the other side of the line.

Three Corners

We reserved one day of our five-day-tour to travel to the point where the Chinese, North Korean and Russian borders meet, a mere 100 miles from the famous Russian port city of Vladivostok.

Once again, the drive to our destination was as interesting to me as our final destination. Some may ask what was so interesting about hours of driving through the country but I was particularly interested in the small towns and lifestyle of the local population dotted along our highway.

I have read numerous biographies and journals of those who lived in the far-reaches of Russia and China, some from former generations in my family. The authors of these documents often describe their homes and towns and, as it turns out, the towns along our drive reinforced many of the images conjured from these readings.




And how can any of us on the bus forget the pit-stops along our journey? I can't imagine anyone actually resting at these reststops for the smell alone can transport you to another world. Let's just say there were no systems in place to remove the contents ... sure makes one appreciate the invention of the modern-day toilet. To my recollection, everyone made it out alive and no permanent damage was done =)


Upon arrival at the three corners, our group was allowed to climb a tower to get a birds-eye view of the meeting of China, North Korea and Russia.

Since China does not actually reach the Sea of Japan, this leaves opportunity for Russia and North Korea to share a short 11 mile border. From our vantage point we could see the Sea of Japan but not actually get to it, having Russia to our left and North Korea to the right.

Apparently the border was established as recently as 1860 when the Russian Tsar bought lands from China.


Today, this 11 mile border is more guarded than even the 880 mile border between China and North Korea, and exhibits a single bridge over the Tumen River as the only connection between Russia and North Korea. No backed-up traffic waiting to cross this bridge like the crossings between Canada and the US; this is a different scenario entirely.

Near the Chinese command post where we overlooked the area stands a UN World Peace monument symbolizing what we all wish for residents of China, Russia and North Korea: freedom and opportunity to live a peaceful existence.

As a Christian I say additional prayers for the people of these nations that they have opportunity to establish a personal relationship with Jesus Christ, the One and Only who can provide eternal freedom and lasting peace.

Taste and see that the LORD is good;
blessed is the man who takes refuge in him.

The righteous cry out, and the LORD hears them;
he delivers them from all their troubles.

The LORD is close to the brokenhearted
and saves those who are crushed in spirit.

The LORD will keep you from all harm—
he will watch over your life;
the LORD will watch over your coming and going
both now and forevermore.
(Psa 34:8,17-18, 121:7-8)